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  • APR Fridge Defend

    Hello, are a lot of you using the APR Fridge Defend? May be a dump question, are they necessary, reading the info on there website it sure looks like they are.
    I’m thinking of buying one, with outside and inside fridge fans.
    Mark,
    Roseville, Ca

    2009 AF 990 camper, 2.5 Onan, 200w solar,
    1500w inverter, Camco cat heater, foam mattress https://www.nroa2003.com/forum/core/...lies/smile.gif

    2007 Chevy 3500 Classic LBZ, Aero Tank-62 gal.
    Bilstein 24 shocks, Torklift StableLoad.TorkLift Tie Downs. Edge CTS-2 Evo.Tire-Safeguard TPMS
    Reese Class V hitch, Front hitch.
    ’06 GL1800, ‘75 Norton, ‘73 Honda CB500k, ‘74Yamaha DT360, ‘76 Bultaco, 68 Yamaha YG5T, 99 KDX220.

  • #2
    Definitely, your AF990 is a side exhaust fridge and will greatly benefit from the ARPrv with the dual outside fans.
    2015 GMC Sierra 3500HD Dually 6 liter Gas, DC, LB, 4.10's, 2016 AF 990

    Comment


    • #3
      I believe this is a must have product. It keeps the fridge temps from getting too high when not only in direct sunlight, but also if you are slightly out of balance and the chemical reaction causes the temp to rise. It will shut it down and reset when cooled off. I bought the one with one extra fan.
      2005 Dodge Diesel 3500: 5.9L Cummins Turbo-Diesel, 3.73 4WD 4SPD SRW, quad cab, long bed, B&W Companion Hitch. Rebuilt tranny, PakBrake Exhaust Brake, PakBrake Airbags w/ Wireless remote fill.

      2017 Arctic Fox 27 5L: 4-Point Leveling System, Progressive 'Hard-Wired' 30amp surge protector, Slide-Toppers, 2" Receiver, TPMS TST 507, ARP Controller, Sailun G rated tires.

      Comment


      • #4
        Ok thanks for replying, I did take out the small vent fan and install these fans on the top vent, not sure if they flow the same amount of air as the ARP. I didn’t know about ARP at the time, when the fan cycles on the blue LED lights come on, it does look cool at night.
        The light gives off a romantic glow, LOL


        Click image for larger version

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        Mark,
        Roseville, Ca

        2009 AF 990 camper, 2.5 Onan, 200w solar,
        1500w inverter, Camco cat heater, foam mattress https://www.nroa2003.com/forum/core/...lies/smile.gif

        2007 Chevy 3500 Classic LBZ, Aero Tank-62 gal.
        Bilstein 24 shocks, Torklift StableLoad.TorkLift Tie Downs. Edge CTS-2 Evo.Tire-Safeguard TPMS
        Reese Class V hitch, Front hitch.
        ’06 GL1800, ‘75 Norton, ‘73 Honda CB500k, ‘74Yamaha DT360, ‘76 Bultaco, 68 Yamaha YG5T, 99 KDX220.

        Comment


        • #5
          A few of us have em
          https://www.nroa2003.com/forum/forum...group-purchase
          2018 GMC 3500 SB diesel with pull rite superglide
          2017 Arctic fox 27-5l 50Amp 5.5 Gen, 4 6 volt, 450W solar,ARPrv,michelin xps,built in surge suppressor, Tank Heat Pads and 4 Point Leveling System

          My 27-5l Manual

          Comment


          • #6
            I ordered one, thanks for input.
            Mark,
            Roseville, Ca

            2009 AF 990 camper, 2.5 Onan, 200w solar,
            1500w inverter, Camco cat heater, foam mattress https://www.nroa2003.com/forum/core/...lies/smile.gif

            2007 Chevy 3500 Classic LBZ, Aero Tank-62 gal.
            Bilstein 24 shocks, Torklift StableLoad.TorkLift Tie Downs. Edge CTS-2 Evo.Tire-Safeguard TPMS
            Reese Class V hitch, Front hitch.
            ’06 GL1800, ‘75 Norton, ‘73 Honda CB500k, ‘74Yamaha DT360, ‘76 Bultaco, 68 Yamaha YG5T, 99 KDX220.

            Comment


            • #7
              Step two https://www.nroa2003.com/forum/forum...roller-install

              Another 1
              https://www.nroa2003.com/forum/forum...h-norcold-1095

              BZawlocki s install looks' really slick.
              2018 GMC 3500 SB diesel with pull rite superglide
              2017 Arctic fox 27-5l 50Amp 5.5 Gen, 4 6 volt, 450W solar,ARPrv,michelin xps,built in surge suppressor, Tank Heat Pads and 4 Point Leveling System

              My 27-5l Manual

              Comment


              • #8
                I’m interested in this product as well. Please let me know if you can tell the difference in the rate it cools the refrigerator after installing it. I just keep questioning if I would be better spending a few more $$ and get the 12 volt conversion. My refrigerator is working superbly. Even when it was over 100 outside the freezer was below zero. But I understand the principle reason to add this is for safety. Thanks in advance.
                Terry Haynes
                USAF 20 yr Retiree. 2018 29-5T 2 a/c, Disc Brakes, Slipper Springs, SoftStart, RV Airflow, AC/Gas frig, Pantry, basement slide, slide toppers, Drain Master sewer hose, LevelMatePRO, 4 Camera Haloview System, Honeywell thermostats on both A/Cs, TST with truck and RV spare tire monitors,
                2019 RAM 3500 CTD SRW LB Laramie Longhorn, Companion B&W hitch, Revolver X4 truck bed cover

                Comment


                • #9
                  I’m just doing it for safety, fridge is working fine. I Sometimes go off road with the camper and not always perfectly level.
                  Mark,
                  Roseville, Ca

                  2009 AF 990 camper, 2.5 Onan, 200w solar,
                  1500w inverter, Camco cat heater, foam mattress https://www.nroa2003.com/forum/core/...lies/smile.gif

                  2007 Chevy 3500 Classic LBZ, Aero Tank-62 gal.
                  Bilstein 24 shocks, Torklift StableLoad.TorkLift Tie Downs. Edge CTS-2 Evo.Tire-Safeguard TPMS
                  Reese Class V hitch, Front hitch.
                  ’06 GL1800, ‘75 Norton, ‘73 Honda CB500k, ‘74Yamaha DT360, ‘76 Bultaco, 68 Yamaha YG5T, 99 KDX220.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by IRN83 View Post
                    I’m interested in this product as well. Please let me know if you can tell the difference in the rate it cools the refrigerator after installing it. I just keep questioning if I would be better spending a few more $$ and get the 12 volt conversion. My refrigerator is working superbly. Even when it was over 100 outside the freezer was below zero. But I understand the principle reason to add this is for safety. Thanks in advance.
                    You bring up an excellent question. Stay with the absorption refrigerator and add the ArpRV controls or convert to the 12volt compressor.

                    1. So let's consider why the absorption refrigerator fails. From my research, it seems the most common failure is leaking ammonia. Norcold even adds an ingredient in the ammonia to help plug leaks. I believe the cause of most of the leaks is tubing failure. Either failure due to over-stressing the tubing or manufacturer defect.

                    How does the tubing get over-stressed? I believe it gets over-stressed when the absorption system gets over-heated causing the tubing to expand beyond specs. Keep doing this over and over again and the tubing fails.

                    The ArpRV system prevents the refrigerator from over-heating because it has a temperature sensor right on the heat exchanger stack. It won't let the unit over-heat.

                    2. Does the ArpRV system help the refrigerator run more efficiently? Well yes by adding fans to move more air across the heat exhange fins. BUT any fan system will do that.

                    3. Does the ArpRV system make your refrigerator safer? Several years ago, Norcold added a temperature sensor at the bottom of the heater stack. That sensor will most likely stop the refrigerator from actually catching on fire. The ArpRV system acts in addition to the Norcold OEM sensor to provide a safety check. So if Norcold already has a sensor why add the ArpRV? Because the ArpRV cuts off the over-heating and over-stressing of tubing. In practice that makes the refrigerator last longer.

                    4. For me the 12V refrigerator conversion makes good sense if your Norcold fails. But if your Norcold is new and working, I suggest the ArpRV with the idea that with the ArpRV system the absorption system will last much much longer.

                    5. If you have had your Norcold for many years, take a look closely at the tubing system. If you see any yellow stains on the cooling system that is ammonia leaking. If you have those stains buy the 12V conversion system now. If you Norcold is new and show no signs of failure get the ArpRV system with both the external fans and the inside fans.

                    Bill
                    Bill, Mary, and Scottie
                    2015 RAM 3500 Crew Cab, Long Bed, 6.7 Cummins/Aisin, SRW, Hensley BD-3 Hitch
                    2017 AF 27-5L
                    http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/719790.png

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Great information. My unit is only 2 or 3 years old. I heard that Norcold added an overheat switch. Thanks to your information I now know what the difference between what Norcold added and what ARP Defend provides.

                      I see the wisdom in the ARP Defend. During my travels I am regularly in grid lock on the interstate on some steep hills with the refrigerator running (trying to get it cooled) and the refrigerator could be overheating, being damaged, and the ARP Defend would eliminate this risk.

                      Here is my issue. I am still working full time and will be for another couple of years. I take a four day trip every month and when not using my RV I have to put it into storage. I can pay the storage facility $5 to start the pre-cooling but when I bring it home and let it sit outside my house overnight, I have to turn the refrigerator off because I live on a steep hill. (I can’t come home from work, load the RV and arrive at the campground before it gets dark, so I bring it home the night before). I put numerous frozen water bottles and blue ice in the frig to accelerate the cooling process, but this is a pain. But most importantly, I can’t take ice cream without it melting!

                      I hate to spend ~$250 for the ARP Defend when a few more dollars (~$750) allows me to convert it to a 12 volt refrigerator. The 12v refrigerator would solve my inability to pre-cool my refrigerator before departing.

                      I’m just mentally wrestling with this. I appreciate your counsel and words of wisdom. I definitely learned more about ARP Defend from your reply. Thanks.
                      Terry Haynes
                      USAF 20 yr Retiree. 2018 29-5T 2 a/c, Disc Brakes, Slipper Springs, SoftStart, RV Airflow, AC/Gas frig, Pantry, basement slide, slide toppers, Drain Master sewer hose, LevelMatePRO, 4 Camera Haloview System, Honeywell thermostats on both A/Cs, TST with truck and RV spare tire monitors,
                      2019 RAM 3500 CTD SRW LB Laramie Longhorn, Companion B&W hitch, Revolver X4 truck bed cover

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        When you guys are saying 12v conversion, is that 12v only?. Mine is a 3-way 12v is one of the modes.
                        Mark,
                        Roseville, Ca

                        2009 AF 990 camper, 2.5 Onan, 200w solar,
                        1500w inverter, Camco cat heater, foam mattress https://www.nroa2003.com/forum/core/...lies/smile.gif

                        2007 Chevy 3500 Classic LBZ, Aero Tank-62 gal.
                        Bilstein 24 shocks, Torklift StableLoad.TorkLift Tie Downs. Edge CTS-2 Evo.Tire-Safeguard TPMS
                        Reese Class V hitch, Front hitch.
                        ’06 GL1800, ‘75 Norton, ‘73 Honda CB500k, ‘74Yamaha DT360, ‘76 Bultaco, 68 Yamaha YG5T, 99 KDX220.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          There is a company JC refrigeration (http://www-jcrefrigeration.com/) that makes a conversion kit where you pull your gas/electric refrigerator out, unbolt the gas refrigeration unit and bolt on a 12v compressor refrigeration unit. This retains the existing refrigerator “shell” but replaces the cooling unit. No more propane or flammable gas, it doesn’t have to be level, etc. This type of refrigerator is becoming more common on newer RVs. This 12 volt compressor refrigerator operates like a home 110v System, just uses12 volts. It has a nominal draw of between 2.5-3.5 amps. So it is great for RVs and boondocking. I hope my explanation answers your question and makes sense.
                          Terry Haynes
                          USAF 20 yr Retiree. 2018 29-5T 2 a/c, Disc Brakes, Slipper Springs, SoftStart, RV Airflow, AC/Gas frig, Pantry, basement slide, slide toppers, Drain Master sewer hose, LevelMatePRO, 4 Camera Haloview System, Honeywell thermostats on both A/Cs, TST with truck and RV spare tire monitors,
                          2019 RAM 3500 CTD SRW LB Laramie Longhorn, Companion B&W hitch, Revolver X4 truck bed cover

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by IRN83 View Post
                            There is a company JC refrigeration (http://www-jcrefrigeration.com/) that makes a conversion kit where you pull your gas/electric refrigerator out, unbolt the gas refrigeration unit and bolt on a 12v compressor refrigeration unit. This retains the existing refrigerator “shell” but replaces the cooling unit. No more propane or flammable gas, it doesn’t have to be level, etc. This type of refrigerator is becoming more common on newer RVs. This 12 volt compressor refrigerator operates like a home 110v System, just uses12 volts. It has a nominal draw of between 2.5-3.5 amps. So it is great for RVs and boondocking. I hope my explanation answers your question and makes sense.
                            I did this conversion in May of this year and have loved it ever since !!!

                            Housted
                            2015 RAM 3500 Laramie 6.7L CTD Tow Rig, Andersen Ultimate 5th Wheel hitch.
                            2011 Arctic Fox 29-5T https://www.nroa2003.com/forum/core/...ilies/cool.gif 2010 Arctic Fox 29-5T on permanent site in the mountains - RIP 2006 AF 29V
                            Interests: White water Kayaking,Photography, Shooting,Reloading
                            Avatar:Eastern Sierra along US395

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I think this is the right thing to do as well. Now to convince the Boss that I can spend the $$. It seems like more and more RV manufacturers are making the 12v refrigerator standard. Hopefully NW will do likewise in the near future. Of course it doesn’t help us that already purchased our RVs.

                              The only concern I have with the 12 volt refrigerator is “who can repair it?” I have heard that getting a residential refrigerator repaired is a major issue. Since the 12v refrigerator is relatively new to market, are there qualified RV techs that can work on it. Dometic is now making a 12v RV refrigerator, so one would hope they are training RV maintenance shops.
                              Terry Haynes
                              USAF 20 yr Retiree. 2018 29-5T 2 a/c, Disc Brakes, Slipper Springs, SoftStart, RV Airflow, AC/Gas frig, Pantry, basement slide, slide toppers, Drain Master sewer hose, LevelMatePRO, 4 Camera Haloview System, Honeywell thermostats on both A/Cs, TST with truck and RV spare tire monitors,
                              2019 RAM 3500 CTD SRW LB Laramie Longhorn, Companion B&W hitch, Revolver X4 truck bed cover

                              Comment

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