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First Timer, Still Working Out The Kink’s

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  • First Timer, Still Working Out The Kink’s

    I have found this forum to be a invaluable source of information and I greatly appreciate all the input. Thank you kindly to all of you who take the time to contribute.

    I am getting closer to taking the maiden voyage with our (new to us) older 27-5L... still I have so much to learn!
    I thought I might make a new thread to consolidate all my newbie questions into (the ones I have difficulty finding answers to).

    My first topic I could use some additional clarification on is the proper wiring of dual batteries.

    Long story short, I had to replace my batteries today after accidentally leaving the main kill switch in the on position for 3 days...
    Amazingly, the batteries I am replacing some how made it to 11 years old and were still working fine up until I forgot the kill switch! That may be some sort of miracle or break a new record , either way I am shocked.

    So I bought a new pair of 6v golf cart batteries from Costco after reading how popular of a option they are and likely my “best-bang-for-buck”. I had to slap my own forehead when I attempted to install them only to realize my AF is actually set up for (2) 12v batteries, and the 6v were too tall to even fit in the compartment area! Man did I feel stupid. Thankfully Costco has such a great return policy they allowed me to exchange them for the 12v versions they offer.

    Regarding my wiring, I am concerned they may not be hooked up correctly. They functioned for over ten years wired in this configuration, so I put it back just the way I found it! I will post up a couple pic’s to share. My concern is that both leads (coming from the trailer) are connected to the same battery. If I understand correctly, the proper configuration should have the “hot” leads connected to one battery, and the “ground” leads hooked to the OTHER, thus allowing both batteries to be discharged/recharged simultaneously and equally.

    Can someone please confirm if this is correct? Thanks in advance
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    I apologize for the sideways photo, it was correct when posted and now it’s not for some reason
    Proud Second Owner 2004 AF27-5L
    2018 Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins/Aisin/4.10 DRW

  • #2
    Your batteries (from your photo) are wired correctly & is also how my two 12v batteries are wired:

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    Travel Blog: www.rocklinroamers.wordpress.com

    2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD: SRW, Duramax / Allison 6.6L Turbo-Diesel, Extended Cab, Long Bed, 4x4, Reese 16K Hitch, 50gal In-Bed Fuel Tank (85 gals total)

    2016 Arctic Fox 29-5T: Six-Point Leveling System, Fireplace, Two A/C's, Two Honda EU2000i Generators, TST "507" Tire Monitoring System, King-Size Bed, Progressive 'Hard-Wired' 50amp Surge Protector, 16gal Water Heater, Slide-Toppers, Power-Reel, 'G Rated' Sailun Tires.

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    • #3
      Thanks for your quick reply, Dave!

      If I am reading that diagram correctly, it shows the positive cable connected to one battery, and the negative cable connected to the other battery?
      (to and from the coach)
      Proud Second Owner 2004 AF27-5L
      2018 Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins/Aisin/4.10 DRW

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Sasquatch View Post
        Thanks for your quick reply, Dave!

        If I am reading that diagram correctly, it shows the positive cable connected to one battery, and the negative cable connected to the other battery?
        (to and from the coach)
        Yes sir... Positive cable from the coach connects to +positive. battery post, and second cable connects from the +positive post from 1st battery to the +positive post to the second battery.

        Same as the -neg battery post to the -neg battery post.

        This is known as being "Wired in Parallel", and using two batteries wired this way, keeps 12V to the coach and produces more "Ampere Hours".

        If you had two 6V batteries, they would be "Wired in Series", to produce 6V + 6V = 12V to coach.

        Hope this helps - and those 12V Costco Interstate batteries are an outstanding battery.

        https://www.rvbasics.com/techtips/RV...-parallel.html

        Travel Blog: www.rocklinroamers.wordpress.com

        2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD: SRW, Duramax / Allison 6.6L Turbo-Diesel, Extended Cab, Long Bed, 4x4, Reese 16K Hitch, 50gal In-Bed Fuel Tank (85 gals total)

        2016 Arctic Fox 29-5T: Six-Point Leveling System, Fireplace, Two A/C's, Two Honda EU2000i Generators, TST "507" Tire Monitoring System, King-Size Bed, Progressive 'Hard-Wired' 50amp Surge Protector, 16gal Water Heater, Slide-Toppers, Power-Reel, 'G Rated' Sailun Tires.

        Comment


        • #5
          You said you purchased two 6 volt batteries so they should be wired in series as shown in the link Dave left. We have two Trojan 6 volt going on their sixth years now and working great so far, just keep the water level up and check the specific gravity now and then.
          Bill
          Bill & Gloria
          2013 27-5L, B&W Companion, Reese 5th Airborne and Tri-Metric TM2025RV Battery Monitor. Honda EU2000i, Wired Rear View Camera. 2002 F350 7.3 Diesel, 6 Speed, LB, 4X4. To Many Mods To Even Talk About. US Navy Retired.
          Proud Deplorables.

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          • #6
            Sorry for the slow reply guys, just getting home...
            I think I may have been unclear with my original question. Just to clarify, I do know with running (x2) 12v battery’s they need to be wired in parallel.
            My question is this; Is it wired correctly when both the power and ground leads running to the coach house are coming off the same battery? This is how it was (and still is) wired originally. If I am not mistaken, the proper way should use the power lead from ONE battery, and the ground lead from the OTHER battery in order to ensure both batteries are being drained and recharged equally.
            Here are a couple more pics showing the wiring from each battery. Basically, the “lower” battery is hooked up directly to the positive and negative leads going to the trailer. The “upper” battery is connected in parallel with jumper leads connected to the lower battery.
            I apologize for the confusion, hopefully that description is more clear. Thanks again for the replies!

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            Proud Second Owner 2004 AF27-5L
            2018 Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins/Aisin/4.10 DRW

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            • #7
              A couple new questions I have are regarding the electric front landing gear.
              Is it possible to “over-extend” it and cause any issues?
              Will it automatically come to a stop when it reaches its fully extended position?
              Can anyone tell me the overall range of movement from fully retracted to fully extended?
              Proud Second Owner 2004 AF27-5L
              2018 Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins/Aisin/4.10 DRW

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Sasquatch View Post
                Sorry for the slow reply guys, just getting home...
                I think I may have been unclear with my original question. Just to clarify, I do know with running (x2) 12v battery’s they need to be wired in parallel.
                My question is this; Is it wired correctly when both the power and ground leads running to the coach house are coming off the same battery? This is how it was (and still is) wired originally. If I am not mistaken, the proper way should use the power lead from ONE battery, and the ground lead from the OTHER battery in order to ensure both batteries are being drained and recharged equally.
                Here are a couple more pics showing the wiring from each battery. Basically, the “lower” battery is hooked up directly to the positive and negative leads going to the trailer. The “upper” battery is connected in parallel with jumper leads connected to the lower battery.
                I apologize for the confusion, hopefully that description is more clear. Thanks again for the replies!
                While it obviously will work in that wiring setup, it is generally considered better to have positive off of one and negative off the other. I believe the theory is that by hooking to both batteries, you better balance the load that is placed on the batteries - - making sure the work equally hard, thus keeping their life expectancy about the same....or so the theory goes
                2018 Arctic Fox 27-5L
                • 4 pt Auto Level / 15k Single AC / 50 Amp (no Gen)
                • 3xFantastic Fans / 3xFantastic Covers
                • Sofa with Air Bed / Dinette / Slow Rise Shades
                • Factory 2" Receiver hitch
                • MODS
                  • 195W Solar / Rear Camera / TPS / Flagpole Buddy / BMV-712
                2015 Chevy 3500 Dually LTZ
                • Duramax / B&W Turnover w/Companion / 40 Gal transfer tank.

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                • #9
                  Thanks Chakara!
                  That’s how I remember being taught, but it’s been a long time so I was just looking for some confirmation before I go about re-wiring things
                  Proud Second Owner 2004 AF27-5L
                  2018 Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins/Aisin/4.10 DRW

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                  • #10
                    From the looks of your photo, I would hook the red cable from the rv to the top battery. That way it will be more balanced charging and discharging.

                    Edited to add: It looks from your pictures that the red cable is already coming down to the bottom battery, so it would be easier to move it to the top battery. Real life may be different.

                    And second edit after tilting my head sideways, move the white wire to the top.
                    2018 27-5L 4 point leveling, 30 amp,
                    2000 F250
                    2000 27-5L sold after 8 great years.

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                    • #11
                      Dilemma of the day... water leak most likely due to me not doing something correctly (I hope!)

                      Today’s project was for me to sanitize the FW holding tank and all plumbing... everything was going smoothly until I attempted to fire up the 12v pump and pressurize the system in order to run water through both sinks and showers to get the bleach water solution throughout the system as I have read about. I could hear the pump come on, but I did not have hardly any water pressure. I started at the kitchen sink and made my way to the shower and lavatory sink to confirm everything was closed off and then tried the kitchen sink again. Still hardy no pressure.
                      Then I remembered the “outdoor shower” and went out to check and see if maybe it was on full blast. It was not, but I did find where all the water pressure was going! I am hoping there is some bypass valve somewhere that I need to close, otherwise I have a major leak near the rear of the trailer.

                      Here are a couple pics showing the leak and where the water is coming from. Please advise. I assume there must be a valve that needs closing off somewhere?

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                      Also for those who are following along, please see post #7 as I think it may have gotten buried and overlooked in my confusion... maybe this “multiple question” type of thread was not the best idea.

                      All advice is appreciated, thank you kindly!
                      Proud Second Owner 2004 AF27-5L
                      2018 Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins/Aisin/4.10 DRW

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                      • #12
                        Those pipes look like your low point drains. Go into the trailer and look up from where they are. I think you will find two valves that are now open from draining the water system to winterize it. My 2001 had push/pull valves and newer trailers have ball valves. The valves are often under cabinets.
                        2016 Ram 2500 4x4 Laramie
                        2018 Arctic Fox 25Y
                        2018 Arctic Fox 29L; Traded in
                        *2001 Arctic Fox 29V; Sold
                        South Lake Tahoe, CA

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                        • #13
                          Grizzer10, thanks for the quick reply and you were on point. I found the valves under the galley sink cabinet. Crisis averted!
                          Proud Second Owner 2004 AF27-5L
                          2018 Ram 3500 4x4 6.7 Cummins/Aisin/4.10 DRW

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