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Cold weather performance - proven!

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  • Cold weather performance - proven!

    Well I'm sitting here snug as a bug. It got down to 5 degrees overnight. Currently it's 12 degrees outside and I have the thermostat set at 70. My thermometer says 69 inside the main cabin, 66 in the bathroom and 28 in my outside compartment.

    Earlier in the week, I had the water lines to the shower freeze up on me - the sink & toilet would work, but no water in the shower. So I went to Lowes and bought some pink insulation. Stuffed a bit in the access port in the sidewall, the outside shower cubby and the shore power cable cubby. Problem solved. The water was flowing in about 30 minutes.

    I don't get a great seal on my outside compartment doors. I can see light coming thru and can feel cold air. I did cut a piece of pink stuff to cover the whole doorway and that helps a bit. Looks to me to "adjust" the doors, I'll have to bend the catch a bit. Kinda nervous about doing that.

    Overall, I'm very happy about the cold weather performance of my Arctic Fox 24J. There doesn't appear to be any drafts and the furnace easily heats the space and cycles on and off normally. I was nervous about having a slide out thinking it would be cold, but so far, that is not an issue.
    2016 Arctic Fox 24J
    2011 Silverado HD2500 Duramax LTZ 4WD

  • #2
    I guess you're not in South Carolina?
    2013 Nash 17K
    2004 Ford F250 Super Duty xlt diesel 6.0L

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    • #3
      Originally posted by wincrasher View Post
      Looks to me to "adjust" the doors, I'll have to bend the catch a bit. Kinda nervous about doing that.
      Don't be nervous. I'm always closing my doors and bending the catch. Just bend it so they close a little tighter. As long as the weatherstripping is in good shape, you'll be good to go.

      *Ron & Deb Nielson
      2008 Silverado 2500HD CCLB SRW Duramax/Allison, B&W Companion, MaxLoader Springs, Bilstein 5100,
      2009 Silver Fox AF29-5T SteadyFast Stabilizer System

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      • #4
        With regard to the outside storage compartments, what I've done is use large trash bags and insert a piece of pink fiberglass insulation large enough to slightly more than cover the opening. Then I neatly folded the bag around the insulation and taped it closed with packaging tape. This arrangement is east to install (just set it inside the door) and remove and no fiberglass gets scattered around. I was going to glue foam board insulation on the inside of each door, but did this as a quick fix. It works so well, I've left it alone. There are also areas behind cabinets and sofa, etc. where this can be done inside.
        Shane
        and Maddy the Labradoodle

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        • #5
          Wow that's cold it was 88 today here in SoCal. We were all expecting a somewhat cold and wet winter but not the case. ElNino has been a BUST so far.
          2013 Arctic Fox 25R 2016 Ram 2500 4x4 Crew Cab Laramie Cummins 6.7

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          • #6
            Here is another minor issue I had over the weekend. It was -5 degrees Sunday morning. The freshwater tank was reading 1 dot, and if you turned on the pump it would run, but no water came out. In the afternoon - it warmed up to a balmy 15 degrees, I tried to fill the tank. It took some water, but not much as it would bubble out the fill port. Same reading on the tank, same behavior with the pump. FWIW, temp inside the trailer with furnace on was 73 degrees.

            Now I'm worried I busted a line or the tank and all the water leaked out - but no evidence under the trailer or around the seams in the belly pan.

            When I returned home from work today, the tank gauge reads full, the pump works normally. My suspicion? The tank froze on the bottom. That froze the pump suction/intake as well so it couldn't draw any water. It strikes me as odd a tank would freeze on the bottom and have water on top. But I suppose that with the heat ducts on the side of the tank, it's possible?

            Thoughts?
            2016 Arctic Fox 24J
            2011 Silverado HD2500 Duramax LTZ 4WD

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            • #7
              We have done two winter trips in our Nash 25C and it has been great. On the first trip, we couldn't get the water to pick up in the tank, it was perhaps 10°F and I'm guessing that there was a slug of ice in the pickup line. After a day of sitting with the water in the tank while using the trailer, we were able to pump water. The 2nd trip brought us a lot warmer weather, 30°F, but the trailer had been sitting with empty tanks again. I filled with approximately 10 gallons of hot water first and then added non heated water. FWIW, Northwoods rated the Nash 25C to 0°F.
              2013 GMC Sierra 2500 SLT Crew cab 4x4 Duramax 2015 Nash 25C

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              • #8
                Hey all, I'm leaving sunny Phoenix area today to head up north a bit for some boondocking. Crazy I know but I don't expect temps below 19°. My question is how are my tanks kept from freezing?
                I have a 2018 AF 27-5L
                2018 27-5L, Heavy-Duty Ram 3500 pickup, Ram Boxes, 6.4 Bed, Cummins 6.7L Turbo Diesel. Reese Sidewinder Hitch. Retired FAA, NY ATC.

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                • #9
                  I added two 75 watt light blubs to my rig. One in behind where the lines come into the lower storage and where the shower lines are. The other one I added to the fridge area outside. Below 20 degs the fridge stops working. They are both tied to a therm switch which turns them on at 35 degs (I think) and off at 45 degs. I also put a vent in where the water pump is and where the water lines come out from the tank. It was getting really cold in that compartment but with a vent the warm air inside the rig keeps thing flowing! If it gets to cold down there I have another light blub!!! So far it seems to keep things flowing without issues down to single digits...but we prefer to stay where its warm if possible!!! Unfortunately some of the kids live in Colorado!!!
                  Rick & Debbi El Paso, Texas (NJ5W/N5GHN)
                  2016 27-5L Disc Brakes, Progressive 'Hard-Wired' 30amp Surge Protector, Sat Dish, Solar, MORryde CRE 3000 with X factor.
                  2015 GMC Duramax, Allison Trans, B&W Companion hitch, Ultimate Air Bags

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by GLopez View Post
                    Hey all, I'm leaving sunny Phoenix area today to head up north a bit for some boondocking. Crazy I know but I don't expect temps below 19°. My question is how are my tanks kept from freezing?
                    I have a 2018 AF 27-5L
                    Your LP furnace has a dedicated vent below your floor area to keep the tank area above freezing. Make sure your furnace is set at about 50+ degrees during the freezing period.

                    If your trailer has the 'tank heater pads' (optional equipment), then you can use them. The pads run off of 110v power.
                    Travel Blog: www.rocklinroamers.wordpress.com

                    2015 Chevrolet Silverado 3500HD:SRW, Duramax / Allison 6.6L Turbo-Diesel, Extended Cab, Long Bed, 4x4, Reese 16K Hitch, 50gal In-Bed Fuel Tank (85 gals total)

                    2016 Arctic Fox 29-5T:Six-Point Leveling System, Fireplace, Two A/C's, Two Honda EU2000i Generators, TST "507" Tire Monitoring System, King-Size Bed, Progressive 'Hard-Wired' 50amp Surge Protector, 16gal Water Heater, Slide-Toppers, Power-Reel, 'G Rated' Sailun Tires.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by RocklinDave View Post

                      Your LP furnace has a dedicated vent below your floor area to keep the tank area above freezing. Make sure your furnace is set at about 50+ degrees during the freezing period.
                      This^

                      And you can run the furnace while you are driving with no problems. We always do so when driving in sub-freezing temperatures.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by wincrasher View Post
                        My suspicion? The tank froze on the bottom. That froze the pump suction/intake as well so it couldn't draw any water. It strikes me as odd a tank would freeze on the bottom and have water on top. But I suppose that with the heat ducts on the side of the tank, it's possible?

                        Thoughts?
                        On my trailer, the outlet for the heat from the furnace to the bottom area is at the top, just under the floor. And of course, hot air rises, leaving the bottom to be the coldest, thus ice/colder on the bottom. If you want to be sure you don't have a future problem, tap into a hot water line near your fresh water tank and plumb with a valve and then a line back into the fresh water tank. With your pump on, open the valve and hot water should flow back into your FW tank. It will cost you some propane to heat the water, but no loss of fresh water. Turn off the valve when you're finished warming up your FW tank. This process needs to be done before your tank freezes.

                        *Ron & Deb Nielson
                        2008 Silverado 2500HD CCLB SRW Duramax/Allison, B&W Companion, MaxLoader Springs, Bilstein 5100,
                        2009 Silver Fox AF29-5T SteadyFast Stabilizer System

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                        • #13


                          If your trailer has the 'tank heater pads' (optional equipment), then you can use them. The pads run off of 110v power.

                          2018 27-5L, Heavy-Duty Ram 3500 pickup, Ram Boxes, 6.4 Bed, Cummins 6.7L Turbo Diesel. Reese Sidewinder Hitch. Retired FAA, NY ATC.

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                          • #14
                            How can I tell if I have the pads. How would they operate?
                            2018 27-5L, Heavy-Duty Ram 3500 pickup, Ram Boxes, 6.4 Bed, Cummins 6.7L Turbo Diesel. Reese Sidewinder Hitch. Retired FAA, NY ATC.

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                            • #15
                              It would be on your build sheet as an option. The switch would be marked like this:

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